I think I forgot to mention the amuse-Bouche for last
night's supper -- a plate with three towering scoops of cold mashed potatoes
topped with blueberries. Truly peculiar.
Anyway, I skipped the Peking Opera last night -- I could
barely make it back to my room. Most of
the people who went wished they hadn't.
We were instructed to have our suitcases outside our
doors by 7:30, for the bellboys to collect --they were to be taken to the train
station.
This morning, we set off for the Temple of Heaven -- more
a park than a working Temple. Lots of spry
old people using exercise equipment in one part.
A long pavilion where people sat on low
walls, playing cards and talking.
A
courtyard where matchmakers sat, with sheets of paper in front of them
describing prospects.
And green grass
and cypresses and hostas all around -- very restful and pleasant. Lots of adorable little tots here and there
-- parents didn't object when I came up with my camera & said hello &
took pictures of the kidlets.
We had a leisurely, early lunch, then set off for the train
station. It was a long way down to the
platform -- stairs, with ramps for suitcases, and our suitcases were strapped
onto carts--maybe 7 to a cart. Each
porter had to use his body to slow the descent of a cartload of suitcases.
I was, of course, relieved to see that my suitcase had
made the transit. It was definitely one
of the larger suitcases -- I felt a little ashamed about that. I don't think I'm packing excessively, until
I realize others are carting far less around.
The train trip was fine -- dusty plains and then
mountains. I was reading Factory Girls
by Leslie Chang -- about migrant girls in their teens mostly, working in
factories in the Pearl River Delta.
Xi'an has about 9 million people, so much larger than I'd
imagined. Our train arrived 6 PM, it was
after 7 PM by the time we got to the hotel -- we ate at a restaurant around the
corner. Unfortunately, men at the next
table were smoking and playing drinking games, otherwise it would have been a
nice dinner -- the food was good. The hotel has real non-smoking floors (the
hotel in Beijing in principle had non-smoking sections, but people were smoking
in them all the same).
Please skip this paragraph if you are easily offended, or
don't want to listen to a rant. Chinese
toilets are mostly of the squat variety, which is hard on my elderly knees,
seldom have toilet paper; the sinks seldom have soap or paper towels or electric
hand driers that work. So I came armed
with hand sanitizer, etc. Whichever
woman goes in first reports to the others on the state of the facilities. Our group leader said things used to be
worse; there used not to be
partitions. The whole thing breeds
anxiety.
Tomorrow, the terra cotta warriors.
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