We
didn’t get to sleep until 1:30 or so last night, and got up maybe 7:30, which
wasn’t enough sleep for me. After an ample breakfast, including poached
salmon, we set off for Yad Vashem, which is over in West Jerusalem. It’s
pretty overwhelming — we were there from maybe 10:30 - 2.
You
zig-zag back and forth, from one side of a prism to the other, in more or less
chronological order. There are many videos of survivors, telling their
stories. One woman was among those to be shot, falling into a pit of dead
bodies — but she lived; she was 7. Another boy dropped through the floor
of the cattle car carrying him to the camps. Another boy, in a ghetto; in
the daytime, they prayed to live to see the stars at night; at night; they
prayed to see the sunrise. (Which is reminiscent of a passage out of the
Torah of being cursed — in the daytime, you will long for evening, in the
evening, you will long for morning). Boys in a camp, reciting passages from
the Haggadah about being free from slavery. A boy who came home to his
house, and his family was all shot dead — their bodies naked and swollen.
All
interspersed with maps and figures and data sheets from Hitler’s minions.
And, of course, when Hitler was defeated, it’s not like there was
someplace for the survivors to return to; the massacres in Poland of survivors
after the war. And the hidden children, who didn’t see much good about
being Jewish.
It
was all pretty harrowing. I got separated from Rose maybe midway through
the exhibit. When you’re done w/ the exhibit, you emerge into a
courtyard, then there’s a courtyard, where I just sat for a while, not sure if
Rose was ahead of me or behind. There was a bookstore, but I didn’t feel
like buying anything. Then there was a “Hall of Remembrance”.
Finally I walked back to the entrance-building, and found Rose.
We’d run through our shekels by then, but she dug up enough for me to buy
a sandwich, and then we waited for the shuttle bus to take us to the light rail
to take us into the Old City, where she had errands to run — to a gift store
that sold crafts by the elderly, and to a scribal store, to buy a mezuzah
scroll for a friend. Also, we needed an ATM. I was pretty tired and
footsore by then (it was maybe 4:30), and got some money at a store’s ATM (but
I think it gave me 240, not 400 shekels), and took a taxi back to the
hotel, where I lay down, had a cup of tea, listened to NPR news. Rose
headed for the market and more adventures.
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